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Committed to Better School Food: Epilogue

April 1st, 2010 · 1 Comment · Posted in kids, school food

Kitchen crew at Washington Jesuit Academy. Left, Derek Nelson; right, Eraleigh Green; middle, Makeisha Day; top, Duane Drake
Kitchen crew at Washington Jesuit Academy. Left, Derek Nelson; right, Eraleigh Green; middle, Makeisha Day; top, Duane Drake

 The food program at Washington Jesuit Academy I described over the last three days not only outlined the great lengths some schools are going to to incorporate fresh, local ingredients in their meals, but also the inspiring story of D.C. Central Kitchen’s efforts to use its culinary program to change the lives of people desperate for a second chance.

Robert Egger, founder of D.C. Central Kitchen and still its guiding light, said it was noteworthy that the Jesuit Academy had embraced the idea of having mostly convicted felons working in their kitchen every day and fraternizing with the students. The school’s headmaster, Joseph Powers, described the kitchen crew as “part of the WJA family.” From what I saw, a strong bond has developed between the cooks and the students. Some teachers described the kitchen workers as “role models” for the boys who attend the academy and take three meals a day there.

Some readers were alarmed by a comment made by kitchen manager Duane Drake that he worked there “for not a lot of money.” In fact, unlike their counterparts in public school kitchens, the cooks who graduate through D.C. Central Kitchen’s culinary program are fairly well compensated and enjoy a package of benefits. In a comment left at the La Vida Locavore blog, where my series also was published, Willian Neuheisel, communications manager for D.C. Central Kitchen, put it this way:

“The men and women who prepare and serve these meals are graduates of the DC Central Kitchen’s Culinary Job Training Program and are employees of DC Central Kitchen.  We are very proud to say that each of these employees begins their employment at the District’s living wage, currently, $12.75.  

“In addition, each of them receives a benefit package that includes 100% paid health insurance, short term and long tern disability insurance and a life insurance policy for free, two weeks paid vacation, plus 8 paid personal or sick days and  50 cents on a dollar matching contribution to a retirement plan.  

“Ultimately what we have shown at WJA is that if the circumstances are right and the commitment is there, school food can be predominantly sourced locally; those preparing these healthy meals can be paid a fair wage with benefits; the students will indeed eat healthier, non-processed foods; and this will have direct results on academic performance and behavior.”

My own impression of the progam at Washington Jesuit Academy was of a resounding success, even though some students groused about the vegetables and the prevalence of soup on the menu. I only wish that more freshly made soups and stews were served in public schools, where the kids get a steady diet of processed convenience foods. I was also impressed to see that Fresh Start Catering, the for-profit arm of D.C. Central Kitchen that runs the program at WJA, sees no need to serve flavored milk or other products with added sugar. Kids in public schools are doused with sugar every day.

Something else that impressed me: the number of students who had books and newspapers open–studying–in the mess hall.

One problem I did experience at the school was very dim light in the kitchen and the dining hall. After my initial reporting, I returned to the school to take better photographs. I present some of them here.

Duane Drake, kitchen manager

Duane Drake, kitchen manager

Makeisha Day, getting English muffins ready for breakfast

Makeisha Day, getting English muffins ready for breakfast

The salad bar

The salad bar

Vegetables are fresh, and mostly local

Vegetables are fresh, and mostly local

Students are served three balanced meals every day, and have unlimited access to fresh fruits and salad

Students are served three balanced meals every day, and have unlimited access to fresh fruits and salad

Headmaster Joseph Powers

Headmaster Joseph Powers

Allison Sosna, executive chef, Fresh Start Catering

Allison Sosna, executive chef, Fresh Start Catering

Allison Sosna, in a more playful moment

Allison Sosna, in a more playful moment

Much of the produce used by D.C. Central Kitchen and Fresh Start Catering is purchased at auction in Dayton, Va., then processed and frozen

Much of the produce used by D.C. Central Kitchen and Fresh Start Catering is purchased at auction in Dayton, Va., then processed and frozen

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  • Charlotte

    I wish more people would take advantage of freezing — I did an interview with Rick Bayless a few years ago, and he freezes a lot of local produce during the summer for use by his restaurants in the winter. If you’ve got the space, it’s a great way to eat local over the long term. I freeze a lot of my summer garden produce for winter.
    And soup! Of course! What a great solution — soup is cheap, delicious, full of veggies and good stuff, the oldest trick in the book for feeding a lot of people. Congrats to the Washington Jesuit School —