What to Do with Green Tomatoes

August 23rd, 2010by Ed Bruske · Recipes, garden

Green tomatoes: a multitude of possibilities

Green tomatoes: a multitude of possibilities

I saved more than 10 pounds of green tomatoes from the marauding pack of field mice that have been devouring our kitchen garden lately. In the picture above you see what I salvaged from our Roma vines, the tomatoes we would normally use for canning. No ripe tomatoes to can here. Fortunately, some of our favorite pickles and preserves are made with green tomatoes, so we can put these to good use.

Marc Rumminger recently published at the Ethicurean blog a recipe for green tomatoes stuffed with walnuts and herbs and baked. I must admit, I have not tried green tomatoes in our savory cooking much. But there’s no reason not too. Cooked or preserved, tomatoes take on a whole other identity in their immature green form.

Do you like roast pork? One of our favorite condiments is a green tomato mincemeat that has none of the usual mincemeat fat but tons of exotic flavor with the addition of apples, pears, orange, lemon, cloves, cinnamon, raisins, brown sugar, cider vinegar. It simmers for a long time in a heavy pot until nearly all of the liquid is cooked away, then it’s sealed in half-pint jars for a later date.

A close cousin is this green tomato and apple chutney that we often serve as an hors d’oeuvre with goat cheese. It also dresses up any Indian food quite nicely.  It’s easy to make, and I’ve made an annual ritual out of dicing all the tomatoes, onions, apples. And the aromas make the house smell so good as the chutney simmers on the stove.

Another of our favorite hors d’oeuvres is a sweet green tomato pickle prepared the old-fashioned way: soaked overnight with pickling lime. The pickling lime makes the tomato wedges especially crisp. The tomatoes are almost translucent after they’ve cooked and look quite pretty in the jars. Again, give them a few months to develop their full flavor and be prepared: it’s hard to stop eating them once you crack open the jar.

Finally, here’s a quick green tomato pickle we really like made with vinegar and spiced with honey and cinnamon. Just toss the tomato sections in a jar with a mix of onions, garlic, green bell pepper, chili peppers. The flavor is unusual and a total pleasure when it develops, a huge reward for not much effort.

I guess I shouldn’t be too quick to say we don’t make savory dishes with our green tomatoes. I nearly forgot one of our favorites, this fried green tomato, bacon and lettuce sandwich. My wife also makes a smashing green tomato pizza.

What’s you’re favorite green tomato dish?

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Defeated By a Mouse

August 21st, 2010by Ed Bruske · garden

This guy is eating my entire garden

This guy is eating my entire garden

Don’t be fooled by this guy’s cuteness. He’s an unabashed garden marauder. In just the last couple of weeks, a family of field mice has eaten their way through my entire crop of eggplants, peppers and tomatoes. Yesterday I decided radical measures were called for: I harvested everything edible from my vegetable beds, pulled up the plants and dispatched them to the compost heap.

We had trouble with these mice last year. They would have eaten all of our tomatoes. They actually climb the tomato vines in their cages and nibble the fruits to the quick–even the green ones. On more than one occasion, I caught them in the act. We finally started bringing the tomatoes indoors to ripen. We had a kitchen full of tomatoes in various stages of ripeness because we could not leave them on the vines.

This year we had a bumper crop of eggplant. But then I started seeing telltale signs that something had been gnawing on them. Soon, they were completely bored through and eaten from the inside out. Same thing with the bell peppers and the banana peppers and even the red-ripe jalapeno peppers. (Apparently the mice were only deterred by the extra-hot Serrano peppers.) I’ve read that mice have such a voracious appetite, they will eat their own tail if nothing else is available.

By last night, the mice seemed to be a bit frantic with their food source suddenly gone. They were scurrying all over the yard, from one vegetable bed to the other in plain sight.  The only thing we have growing now are the cucumbers, which they haven’t touched so far, our pole beans and a row of leeks. If they start eating pole beans and leeks, I will have to throw in the towel.

How to deal with an infestation of vegetable-crazed mice in the garden? This will definitely require some thought. At the moment, the only thing I can think to do is somehow encapsulate the affected plants in row cover. But that’s for next year. For the moment, we’re looking at a kitchen garden that has seen a premature end to the season.

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Spicy Cajun Pickles

August 20th, 2010by Ed Bruske · Recipes, garden

Pickles like you will never find in the store

Pickles like you will never find in the store

We look forward to these pickles every summer because they’re our daughter’s favorite and they really are spectacular. The way they’re made is a bit unusual, too. They’re lacto-fermented in a salt brine with a wee bit of vinegar and a heap of herbs and spices while in the jar. Then they’re moved into the refrigerator for a few days more to develop flavor. They will last several weeks that way, but ours are fairly quickly eaten. They’re hard to resist.

The one sticking point with this pickle recipe is a rather long list of herbs and spices. I’ve written about this before. Check out this earlier post, wherein I deconstruct some of the original instructions which called for all kinds of different commercial spice mixes (Cajun spices, Italian spices, pickling spices) that are merely blends of things you may already have in your pantry.

The original recipe also calls for red cherry peppers, in addition to a jalapeno pepper. But I already have a abundance of red-ripe jalapeno peppers, so I used those instead. Try it, and see if these aren’t some of the best pickles you’ve ever tasted, perfect next to a corned beef sandwich.

For more great stories about how we are taking back our food system, check out Fight Back Friday.

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A Little Sweetness in Your Dill Pickles?

August 19th, 2010by Ed Bruske · Recipes, garden

Dills with a bit of sugar

Dills with a bit of sugar

I’m convinced that the best dill pickles I’ve ever tasted had at least a little sugar in them. The traditional flavor combo–dill seed, mustard seed, peppercorns–just doesn’t do much for me. Yet I’ve had the hardest time finding a dill pickle recipe (I’m talking about vinegar pickles, of course) that gets me closer to the pickle of my dreams, but not too far off the beaten path.

But take a look at this recipe in the book Putting Food By, a great guide to freezing, canning, pickling and other food preservation methods. Called “Quick Dill Pickles,” they call for equal amounts of sugar and salt, along with vinegar and water. I made half this recipe:

Makes 7 pints

30 to 40 medium pickling type cucumbers, 5 inches long

3/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup pickling salt (or kosher or sea salt)

1 quart vinegar

1 quart water

7 fresh dill heads

(Optional: 7 garlic cloves)

(Optional: 3 tablespoons mixed whole pickling spices)

Note: I put the garlic cloves in quart jars with the cucumbers, and placed the pickling spices in a tea ball to boil with the other brine ingredients. I used cider vinegar for the brine.

Mix together sugar, salt, vinegar and water and bring to a boil. Tie spices in cheesecloth or place in tea ball and boil in vinegar mixture for about 10 minutes, then remove. Meanwhile, scrub cucumbers, removing stem and blossom ends. Cut lengthwise into halves or quarters, not longer than the shoulder height of the jars you are using. Put 1 whole head of fresh dillin each clean, hot jar. Pack jars with cucumbers upright, then tuck in a clove of garlic. Pour in boiling vinegar mixture, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Adjust lids. Process in 185-degree water bath for 10 minutes. Remove jars.

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Foraged Garden Mash-Up

August 18th, 2010by Ed Bruske · Recipes, garden

Odd lots from the garden make their own dish

Odd lots from the garden make their own dish

Sometimes bits of one thing or another from the garden end up creating their own dish.

As I considered a handful of okra left over from a round of pickling yesterday I wondered what else we had in the garden that might work with it for dinner. A few minutes with a pair of kitchen scissors and I had my answer, as I raided the pepper patch for several banana peppers in various stage of ripeness, a couple of bell peppers and a ripe jalapeno. Add an onion and some corn and edamame (soy beans) from the freezer, plus a chiffonade of basil, and you have a first-class vegetable side dish to go with some grilled brats.

Cut the onion and peppers into medium dice (the jalapeno chopped fine), season with salt and sweat in extra-virgin olive oil in a heavy pot until soft. Add about six large okra pods cut on an angle into 1/2-inch pieces and a 14-ounce can of diced tomatoes (or use fresh). Stir in a fistful of basil leaves cut into a chiffonade. When the okra begins to soften, add 1/2 cup corn kernels and 1/2 cup edamame.

Continue cooking, covered, until the okra is completely cooked through. Adjust seasoning, adding freshly ground black pepper if you like. The flavor of all the different peppers is intoxicating. But really, this dish could be made with anything ready to harvest in the garden. Isn’t this what summer’s all about?

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Baba Ganouj

August 17th, 2010by Ed Bruske · Ethnic, Recipes

The garden turns out a genius dip

The garden turns out a genius dip

When you’ve got lemons–so the saying goes–make lemonade. The same applies to eggplant. We’ve got plenty of it in the garden right now. In fact the plants themselves have long given up trying to stand upright, they are so weighted down with fruit. They just spread themselves on the ground. (Note to self: stake the eggplants next year.)

Thus, we are in the hunt lately for great dishes to make with eggplant. We’ve been perfecting our okra and eggplant stew. This week, it’s the classic Middle Eastern treatment–baba ganouj.

I did not have a particularly strong memory of liking baba ganouj so much. I love hummus, but can’t eat it any more because it’s so starchy. Eggplant has the advantage of being not only low-cal, but relatively low-carb (only 28 grams of carbohydrates in a pound of fresh eggplant). Of course, by the time you add the tahini (ground sesame), the finished baba ganouj has plenty of calories, but still is low on the carb scale. I’m happy to count it as one of my new most favorite kitchen garden friends.

I didn’t remember, exactly, how to construct the baba ganouj and so pulled out my tattered copy of the Moosewood Cookbook. My wife thought that was silly: Why didn’t I just look it up in one of my Paula Wolfert cookbooks? In fact, I have a shelf full of Paula Wolfert cookbooks. She’s covered everything Middle Eastern, North African and Mediterranean. But you know what? Her recipe for baba ganouj is almost exactly the same as the one in Moosewood, except that she recommends wrapping the eggplant in foil and cooking them over a gas flame instead of in the oven for smokier flavor. (Why not on the grill?)

To make the Moosewood version, place two medium eggplants in a 400-degree oven (either on a sheet pan, or place them directly on a rack with a pan underneath to catch the drippings). Bake until the eggplants begin to collapse and are completely soft inside. Remove them from the oven and when they are cool enough to handle, slice them open and scoop out the insides into a bowl.

To the eggplant, add 1/2 cup tahini, two or three cloves of garlic finely chopped, the juice of one lemon and a fistful of parsley leaves, roughly chopped. Mash everything into a puree with a potato masher. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with more parsley and serve with wedges of pita bread or baked pita. Or, if you are off carbs as we are, put out a spread of fresh vegetables for dipping, such as thinly-sliced zucchini, strips of bell pepper, baby carrots.

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D.C. Schools Refuse to Disclose Food Rebate Accounting

August 16th, 2010by Ed Bruske · school food

Why are rebates for this food secret?

Why are rebates for this food secret?

Attorneys for D.C. Public Schools have refused to release an accounting of more than $1 million in rebates received from corporate food manufacturers, claiming that details about the rebates constitute “trade secrets” and that exposing them to public scrutiny would hurt the “competitive position” of Chartwells, the school system’s contracted food service provider.

The ruling by the DCPS general counsel’s office places D.C. schools in the awkward position of shielding from public view the practices of Chartwells and its parent company Compass Group, an international food service giant with operations in 40 countries that last year reported nearly $21 billion in sales and $1.37 billion in profits. Compass Group paid shareholders $386 million in dividends during the same period, according to its 2009 annual report [PDF].

D.C. schools have come under steady fire in recent months for the dubious quality of industrially processed convenience foods Chartwells routinely serves to school children here.

School system attorneys handed down their decision in a letter Thursday in response to a Freedom of Information Act request I made for a detailed accounting of food rebates the schools have received through Chartwells. On July 12, I reported that D.C. Public Schools had received more than $1 million in rebates during the two years that Chartwells has been acting as food services contractor.

Some critics charge that the rebates, paid by large food manufacturers, act as an inducement to put highly processed and often sugary convenience foods on children’s cafeteria trays. Numerous companies whose products regularly appear in D.C. school meals refused to discuss details of their rebate practices, including Kellogg, Otis Spunkmeyer, Pepperidge Farm and Cloverland Dairy.

Paying rebates for large volume purchases is common practice in the food industry, but shrouded in secrecy. The procurement division of Compass Group and Chartwells in North America–Foodbuy–makes more than $5 billion worth of purchases every year and employs dozens of people to negotiate contracts with manufacturers and track the rebates that are due. Rebates become an important driver for the types of foods Chartwells uses in its meal service as well as its bottom line.

Under the federally subsidized school meal program administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, food service providers such as Chartwells are required to turn over to their school system clients any rebates they receive, but many in the industry believe that the companies routinely find ways to pocket the money instead. I was able to calculate the total amount of rebates Chartwells has claimed from copies of its monthly invoices that I obtained from D.C. Public School through the Freedom of Information Act. Those rebates worked out to about 5 percent of the total purchases Chartwells reported on those invoices. But the invoices only report the gross amounts of the rebates and do not give any detail about  which food manufacturers the rebates come from.

Just nine days after I published my initial report, the attorney general of New York, Andrew M. Cuomo, announced that Sodexo, another international food services giant, had agreed to pay the state $20 million to settle claims that it had improperly withheld rebates from numerous school districts and universities there. “This company cut sweetheart deals with suppliers and then denied taxpayer-supported schools the benefits,” Cuomo said in a statement.

Subsequently, D.C. councilmember Mary Cheh (D-Ward 3), wrote D.C. Attorney General Peter Nickles, asking him to intervene and assist schools here to make sure they are receiving all of the rebates to which they are entitled from Chartwells. 

Cuomo said his action against Sodexo was part of a wider and ongoing investigation of rebates in publicly-funded food service. Concerns about rebates in school food appear to be spreading. Following news of New York’s settlement with Sodexo, legislators in New Jersey called on that state’s attorney general to investigate the company’s practices in schools there as well.

Federal law also stipulates that food service companies must provide a detailed accounting of where their rebates come from, but only when a school district requests it. Following my July 12 report, Anthony Tata, the chief operating officer for D.C. Public Schools, disclosed to The Washington Post that he had made such a request in October 2009 and had waited nine months for Chartwells to comply.

The rebates appear to have become something of an embarrassment to Tata and others in schools Chancellor Michelle Rhee’s administration. Tata told The Post testily that his staff was working to improve the food Chartwells serves “and the rebate, if there is one, will not factor at all into our decision making.”

When I asked a schools spokeswoman for a copy of Chartwells’ rebate itemization, I was told to submit a Freedom of Information Act request. The decision by school system attorneys to deny my request and squelch that report would appear only to increase the drama surrounding food rebates at a time when Tata is trying to show that he and newly-hired food services director Jeffrey Mills are moving the school meals program in a positive direction.

Rebates seem to go hand-in-hand with popular brands of sugary processed foods such as Apple Jacks cereal, Pop-Tarts, Giant Goldfish Graham and Otis Spunkmeyer muffins–all regular fare, up to now, in D.C. school breakfasts. By contrast, healthier alternatives such as Nature’s Path organic cereal do not offer rebates. Bonnie Christensen, executive chef for schools in Berkeley, Calif., which serve Nature’s Path and make most of their food from scratch using raw ingredients, said she doesn’t deal in rebates at all.

Some might also argue that parents have a right to a full disclosure of how money from billion-dollar food corporations influences the  meals their children are fed at school.

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Teaching Urban Composting

August 15th, 2010by Ed Bruske · garden

Burying kitchen scraps in the compost pile

Burying kitchen scraps in the compost pile

My composting system has been turned upside down this year. Normally I spend quite a bit of my time foraging the ingredients for my compost pile–leaves, grass clippings, coffee grounds–and managing a three-bin system for turning it all into the primary means of maintaining fertility in my vegetable beds. Despite all of that work, and storing materials in a family of metal trash cans, I find that I never have quite enough compost as I need for our kitchen garden here in the District of Columbia, about a mile from the White House.

The reason for confusion this year was the gift I received from our new friend J.P. at Envirelation, and his gift to us in the spring of a truckload of fresh compost made from kitchen scraps his company collects from restaurants, hospitals, schools and other commercial sources. That pile was enough to spread about four inches of compost on our vegetable beds–a huge amount, really, many times what we normally apply.

The result has been a garden on steroids. Would you believe cosmos flowers seven feet tall? But as I said, it threw my usual composting routine completely out of rhythm. Nevertheless, yesterday I entertained a dozen students eager to learn how to compost. They had signed up for the class through Ecolocity, a fairly new group here in D.C. dedicated to teaching people a more sustainable lifestyle. They are just one of several groups now pushing the idea of urban agriculture here in the nation’s capitol.

Composting takes so many different forms, I couldn’t begin to explain them all. The process is simply nature’s way of turning dead things back into the soil with the aid of bacteria, fungi, sow bugs, mites, earthworms and a host of other creatures. You can do it on a small scale, or a really big scale. San Francisco, for instance, now has mandatory curbside pickup of kitchen scrap and other compostable materials. In urban areas, people eager to be more enviro-friendly are desperate for ways to compost their waste, rather than sending it to the landfill.

We should be emulating the Chinese, who for thousands of years realized that in order to maintain fertility, it is essential to return to the soil the nutrients we remove from it. We don’t do that. For instance, the Chinese famously collected their own feces to fertilize their fields. They considered humanure golden. We treat ours like it’s toxic, and send it down the toilet to be disposed of in a distant treatment facility.

Composting can be done in small, commercially-made bins, or in a simple pile in the back yard. The best mix, I’ve found, is equal parts “brown” materials such as fallen leaves, straw, cardboard or newspaper, and “green” materials such as grass clippings, weeds, coffee grounds. (Just don’t put weeds that have gone to seed in your compost, or you risk spreading them everywhere.) Once you have your pile, you can bury your kitchen scraps in it and they will become compost as well.

All the microbes need to thrive and carry on their work is air, food and water. So give your pile a spray of water while you’re making it, and keep it just barely moist during the composting process. A pile of this sort will heat up to 150 or 160 degrees within a matter of days, then cool again, at which point you might want to turn it to give it some more air. But not to worry, your compost pile will decompose all by itself, even if you do nothing. If anything, you want to err on the side of having more “browns” in the pile, otherwise you could end up with an anaerobic decomposition–meaning starved for oxygen–which breeds bacteria that make those putrid, disgusting garbage smells.

Figure a year before your compost is actually ready to use. And for more details, check out my composting videos listed under the “video” header at the top of the blog.

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D.C. School Food in ‘Flavor’ Magazine

August 14th, 2010by Ed Bruske · food news

Processed beef teryaki bites and cooked-to-death veggies

Processed beef teryaki bites and cooked-to-death veggies

Flavor magazine, covering food news in the Washington, D.C., area, asked me to recap what I’ve learned about the food D.C. serves in its public schools since I first spent a week some months ago as an observer in the kitchen of my daughter’s elementary school. Of course, if you ‘ve been reading this blog, or the Better D.C. School Food blog, you already know the answer to that. Otherwise, you can find the piece under the heading, “The Scary Truth About D.C.’s School Food.”

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Quince and Clove Sour: A Cocktail Weeks in the Making

August 13th, 2010by Ed Bruske · Recipes, entertaining

Plan this around your next trip to England

Plan this around your next trip to England

We needed a delivery of “Pink Cloves” cordial from a friend living in London, but finally last night we were able to sample a cocktail my wife has been working on quite literally for weeks. It’s called a Hendrick’s Quince and Clove Sour, and she found it on the amusingly Monty Python-esque Hendrick’s Gin website.

We’ve embraced Hendrick’s, a gin flavored with cucumber, as our new most favorite gin. Although I try not to drink alcohol any more (bad for the waistline and blood pressure), my wife and I still enjoy an occasional cocktail. This one calls for Pink Cloves cordial, made by the Bristish company Phillip’s of Bristol. We did not find a source for this in the U.S. and wish we did. Phillip’s makes a whole line of intriguing cordials, including anise seed, lovage and something called “shrub.” Who knew?

My wife sent a shopping list to our friend Desson, on assignment in the United Kingdom, and he came back recently with three bottles of Pink Cloves and a story about the devil of a time he had finding them even on Phillip’s home shores. (The next question being, What do you do with three bottles of Pink Cloves cordial?)

Pink Cloves cordial from Phillip's of Bristol

Pink Cloves cordial from Phillip's of Bristol

This particular cocktail also calls for quince preserves. What? Your local Safeway doesn’t carry quince preserves? In that case, you may need to take a trip to Rodman’s, a most unusual pharmacy and grocery store here in the District of Columbia. My wife took me there for the first time yesterday, and I got lost perusing pickles and canned sardines of every possible description. They devote practically an entire aisle to jams and preserves. It’s a United Nations of confections.

To make a Quince and Clove Sour, mix 1 2/3 ounces Hendrick’s Gin, 1 teaspoon quince preserves, 2/3 ounce lemon juice, 1/2 ounce honey syrup (mix honey with a little hot water) and a splash of Pink Cloves cordial. Mix with ice and shake, then pour into a martini glass and garnish with a twist of lemon.

You can find more Hendrick’s cocktails at the company’s website, and at the blog–Unusual Times–that’s linked there.

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